RUNIN England

Family Reunion of a First Kind

2010-08-08T16:57:00.000-07:00

"Sometimes life brings you pleasant surprises -- it's not scripted or orchestrated, but just right. Life can be charming, like that, if you let it."
It was a family reunion -- one that has never happened at this scale before.

True, I spent nearly 10 days with Rio at the Chiswick flat. During this time, I was also able to spend some quality time with Luke and meet his father, Derek who inspired me with his abstract paintings.

I was also able to go running with Luke a couple of times (take great satisfaction in his tremendous progress) as well as Chris (we ran down to Richmond together). In fact London has been a great running city and what I personally dub "the fittest city in Europe".

It was ideal that Luke worked at Apple, since he was able to hook me up with an appointment at the Genius Bar in Westfield Shopping Center. I had an issue with iMovie, and Apple gave me a free upgrade. (Note: It's amazing that Kim, Kae, Rio, Luke and Chris all use Macs -- I've never seen so many exclusive Mac lovers in my life)

BTW, Westfield, the largest urban shopping center in Europe, is simply amazing. It's like going to a theme park -- there is definitely something for everyone with mega stores and a large 14 screen state-of-the-art theater. You will love it, even if shopping may not be your thing.

Since Kae was in Tuscany for drama training camp, I was able to stay in her room. It was the longest I've ever spent at any place away from home in quite a while (not counting the Navy).

The Apple store where Luke works at is really nice. But I heard that the largest Apple store in the world is opening up in Covent Garden. The store has a central courtyard which will host free workshops everyday -- can't wait to see it.

My trip was day-by-day. And I extended my stay, particularly, because I found out that Kim and Kae were coming back at the end of the month. That was why, going to Northern Ireland to see friends was a great option until my sister and niece returned home.

I got more than I bargained for during that trip -- besides seeing Mark and Lee -- friends who I met in DC three years ago, I got to do a lot of quality sightseeing, got to visit Dublin and made new friends who taught me a lot about the precious value of life and understanding.

Mark and Lee took the entire day off from work to give me a grand tour of the Antrim Coast showcasing the scenic, untouched Northern Ireland coastline -- one that is one of the most beautiful in the world -- even more spectacular than Hawaii.

Arthur Magee taught me a lot about sectarian conflict and how it is important to learn and understand each other.

This whole trip was more eye-opening than going to school, and definitely a lot more fun. No encyclopedia, no ebook reader, no youtube video could teach me life's social skills better than what I learned in London, Belfast, Dublin and even Paris and Normandy.

In Paris, I fell in love with the Eifel, the Louvre, Notre Dame. In Normandy, I reflected on the greatest of sacrifices from the Greatest Generation.

I also got to make new friends: Niki Larsen from Canada and Siven Lu Ye from Australia.

We made videos together, and although the videos were mostly fun, I learned a great deal about life making them.

Even got to meet up with CAPT Phil Perdue in the most amazing coincidence ever.

Since I only had one final day in London when I returned from Belfast, our reunion was delayed for a bit as I was in Chiswick purchasing a Dahon foldable bike. But things really worked out. Thankfully, Kae, Rio and Luke saw me when they were riding by in a bus and got off to see me at the bike store. Minutes later, Lai drove by and was a life saver. Instead of having to carry the bike all the way back to my hostel in Westfield, we simply put the bike in Lai's car. Now we were ready and yearning for dinner.

In life, nothing rarely happens the way you intended it to. It's important to be flexible, fluid and understanding. Sometimes life brings you pleasant surprises -- it's not scripted or orchestrated, but just right.. Life can be charming, like that, if you let it.

In the long run, we will appreciate the fact that we were flexible and cherish the tender times that we were able to spend together.

The dinner was delicious and wholesome. I did not know it was even possible to make spaghetti so delicious. The meal, in fact, was just as good as Rio's Japanese Curry she cooked for us the night I left for Northern Ireland. This is also the very first time I've spent time with Kim, Kae, Rio and Rintaro all at the same time, under one roof. So it's a very special moment to be thankful and remember -- one that just happened when we let life's circumstances take the lead.

I had not seen Kim and Rintaro since 2008 in Paris and Kae 2008 also in London. Rio was last summer in London. Though collectively, it seemed like a lot. It had never happened with everyone together.

We had a wonderful time, talking, laughing, just enjoying a simple and pleasant meal with friends and loved ones. Nothing special, though it meant the entire world to me.

After dinner, we all went to Notting Hill to visit Rio as she was painting her clothing store. Notting Hill is a fabulous, affluent, fashionable community with beautiful Victorian homes and attractive storefronts. It is a very artsy place, which I love.

This has been an amazing year for Kim since this is the first time that she has seen Mom, Pearl and me all within the same calendar year, since she was a child. (Mom in Japan, Pearl in Hong Kong and me in London) This is no coincidence, this is meant to be, and it was a wonderful gift.

2010 is also the year, that I lost my dear Grandma in Japan. She lived a long and productive life and is greatly missed.

Again, it's amazing how life works out. The whole trip to UK was not planned. I caught a Medevac flight from Andrews at the very last minute. And during the trip, everything was almost day-by-day: where I was going next, even where I would be sleeping.

So this whole trip was no coincidence and it ended in the very best of ways.

When you leave things to the Lord, there is time for tragedy, but there is also a time to rejoice.

A Bike in a Bag

2010-08-08T13:40:00.001-07:00

When I arrived in London and boarded its renowned Tube train, I noticed something different right away. No it wasn't the faces or the accents -- I already was expecting that.

The Difference

There were no bikes. No regular bikes at least, just foldable ones. The ones that could almost fit in a gym bag and slide underneath your seat. Come to find out only foldable bikes were allowed in the Tube, rush hour or not. I could see why the trains were compact and very crowded, even before rush hour. I finally understood the meaning of a poor, helpless sardine packed in a crushed tin box.

Interesting Features

The bike was interesting. Not only were they compact, providing for flexibility in transportation, but they were virtually thief proof. It seemed too good to be true. How come I hadn't really seen them in DC. Oh yeah, we are the land of the Big and Bountiful while London was tight and tiny. Still, I had to check one out for myself. Yeah, it folds, but how does it ride and most importantly of all, how silly do I look on it?

Dahon or Brompton

In UK, Bromptons are King. They are ubiquitous. There is even a Brompton Bike Race. They are compact and they are expensive. The Dahon, a company from Taiwan, is gaining ground in UK and market share worldwide. They are strong, light, fast and yes, more economically-conscious, if there is such a word. Also I heard that the Dahon is more reliable for longer commutes, which I was interested in. Heck, I wanted to take one on a bike ride from DC to Baltimore without acquiring any wicked bad knee or bad back pain.

Dahon, the Honda of Foldables

So I decided to take the Dahon MU P-8 out for a spin. It was lightweight, sleek, slick and looked somewhat sporty despite its clunky wheels. I was completely enamored. In fact, I was completely sold. So sold, I bought one. On the very last day I was in London.

The Bulky Transport

Carrying the bike back to DC was not an easy task. The bike (aluminum frame) weighs about 25 pounds, and the bike bag was bulky, and navigating through London's metro system and all those stairs was not easy. I quite desperate, but very lucky to find a convenience store that was willing to give me the plastic baggies that are used to wrap juice bottles. They served as great packing material.

The Fleecing Fliers

At any rate, I got it back safe and sound (despite grief from Iberia Airlines). Make sure you check the extra bag online -- that saves you a bundle. I was fortunate to register the bike as an extra bag, not as sports equipment, which would have been 75 Euros. All in all, Iberia was very nice (unlike my experience with EasyJet earlier in the week)

The Big Surprise

As soon as I opened the bag, I was happy to see my bike had made the cross-Atlantic trip. But upon assembling the bike, my glee changed to a sullen frown as I noticed that the crankset gear was bent. I tried to fix it but the chain would continuously slip off. The chain was definitely crooked when I turned the bike upside down and back pedaled. Oh no, I exclaimed. I wasn't going to let this get me down. I didn't bring this bike all the way across the ocean to spend massive amounts of money to order a new crankset.

The Best Bike Mechanic in the World

The next day, I went to see Rob and Seth at Capitol Hill Bikes who fixed it in a jiffy with a vice grip and a mallet. As always, Rob was very reliable and I was fortunate that Seth happened to be in the shop. (Seth had sold me my very first bike 2 years ago and 4 bikes ago). He also assembled my Specialized Transition for my first Half Ironman in Cancun last September.

My Anxious Bike Legs

Then I couldn't wait any longer. My legs were dying to take it out for a spin all over the town. Didn't care what people think or whether I would get stares.

And yes indeed, I rode my Dahon 10-speeder UP and DOWN all around town, from the Mall to Chinatown, to Dupont Circle to U Street to Foggy Bottom. Even Up and down hills with the greatest of ease. The shifting was smooth and I was able to cruise up hills in tandem with other bikers with a lot bigger wheels.

In fact, I had plenty of gears, all eight of them, and the derailer shifted wonderfully and quick. After all, there really is no need to have 20-something gears (unless you're racing). All you need, IMHO, is fast, slow, one that gets you up a steep hill and a few in between.

The 20 inch Schwalbe Marathon tires provided good comfort and I heard is virtually impenetrable to thorns and hopefully glass and screws (since I get a lot of that commuting home along Suitland Parkway). I was even able to ride through a few potholes and jumped a few curbs.

So the verdict? Looks like my sleekly, sexy Specialized Transition Triathlon bike may sit in the closet for a lot longer, while I take my clunky, unattractive and a lot slower Dahon to school, to meetings, to dates and everything in between. (BTW, more ugly means less attractive to thieves)

Trafalgar Square Limerick

2010-08-07T11:19:00.000-07:00

Trafalgar Square is a park in the heart of London
It is the most famous tourist attraction in the United Kingdom.

The name commemorates the British Naval victory during the Battle of Trafalgar

Lord Horatio Nelson defended the British kingdom near the Strait of Gibraltar

Today, the Square brings people and colors from all Nations

In 2005, the Square was the location for the 2012 Summer Olympics celebration

Copyright 2010

Giants Causeway Limerick

2010-08-07T08:10:00.000-07:00

Here we are in Giant's Causeway
Where 40,000 columns of basalt rock stand today

The volcano erupted
The larva cooled
But before there was science
There was the Legend of Finn McCool

It is called the Giant's Causeway
It was made by Finn McCool
It's really just the start of a stepping stone tool
To get across to Scotland
To fight with Bennadonner
Through many disagreeements
They pulled each other asunder

He took to Cloddin' muck
And try and try as he may
He never his his target
But he made us our Lough Neagh
The mud landed in the water
And with all the might he can
He only then succeeded
In making the Isle of Man

So he took to playing the organ
And over here are his pipes
He played the Sash, Derry's Walls and Billyboys
And started loads of fights

Cause the Scottish giant thought that this were his tunes

Little did he know that the music for Highland Bagpipes
Would come from across there near Dungloe

Mark Wilson, Copyright, 2010

"What's Going On" at The Celt in Dublin

2010-08-06T12:34:00.001-07:00

The Celt is the local Irish pub where I had a fantastic time. I listened all night to lively Irish music from The Shenaningans. I had a great time meeting Daryl O'Connor, Muray, Cormoe McCarthy and owner Noel Tynan. Celtic music is so magical, delightful and contagious. It is the predecessor of Bluegrass (Descendants from Scotland, Ireland and Wales). It makes you soul dance and spirit rejoice so much that you stay until the very last note.

Imperial War Museum

2010-08-05T14:16:00.000-07:00

Constructed during WW I, the Imperial War Museum really depicts how life in Britain was during WW II. It boasts a 3-story building with all the details of life built within the walls.

I have been to many museums over the years that depicts warfare and weaponry. First, I brushed it off as just another museum, similar to the many Army, Navy and Marine Corps Museums I've seen in Washington, DC. But when I arrived, I was in for a staggering surprise.

It may be old, but it is beautiful, formidable and exciting. It is fascinating, interactive and heartbreaking. The holocaust museum is very emotional and definitely not for the faint of heart.

The Trench and Blitzkrieg experience was scarily realistic and truly shows the sacrifice and courage of Londoners during WW II. Besides the bombs and artillery, soldiers had to endure the smell of urine, lice, rats, corpses, etc.

Hitler once wanted to invade England. He had now changed his mind, but wanted to destroy London. The purpose of the Blitz was to demoralize the population and force Britain to come into terms.

On Sept 7, 1940, 348 German bombers blasted London for two hours. Then a second set of raiders came and attacked London all through the night. The Blitz continued for 57 consecutive days.

Londoners sought shelter underground, and as many as 177,000 people stayed in shelters during the night. Many were killed when shelters were attacked.

Their artifacts is truly extensive, covering every aspect of warfare.

In WW II, the main weapons of ground warfare for the Germans were machine guns, submachine guns, anti-tank weapons, flame throwers and grenades.

"Cat Man Joe", The Celt in Dublin

2010-08-03T06:06:00.000-07:00

Fire Breathers of Belfast

2010-08-02T08:36:00.001-07:00

Linen House -- A Great Place to Stay

2010-08-02T08:24:00.000-07:00

I truly enjoyed my stay at the Linen House Hostel. Of all weekends to stay in Belfast, I chose the weekend of the Gay Pride, so the place was packed. I shared a room with 19 other people, but I did manage to get a great night's sleep, even though some were loud and snored through the night.

I can't remember the last time I slept with so many people -- this goes back to my enlisted days in the Navy aboard the USS Francis Hammond (FF-1067)

I have to admit, some people had bad body odor and they made noise late at night, but nothing could beat the price: 10 pounds per night. The bed was comfy, the showers were warm and the WiFi was strong.

The location in Belfast cannot be beat, since it is only 5 mins from the new Victoria Square Mall and a leisurely 10-min walk to the City Centre.

I found both Sarah and Leonard very helpful and hospitable. They even let me stay there for a few hours to upload video after I had checked out.

The WiFi was great and I stayed up late uploading 4 videos, often in the living room where a lot of the backpackers congregated through the night. It was nice meeting them, although they were loud. It was good ambience.

The lovely, state-of-the-art Victoria Square Mall

Overall, it was a fantastic bargain and a great stay.

It wasn't the plushest, but it was definitely the nicest.

And even a week later, I still communicate with Sarah -- they are definitely very friendly, hospitable and professional.

A Time of Glee in Dublin

2010-08-01T17:12:00.000-07:00

Dublin is indeed a beautiful city that has both its good and bad. Lovely and Georgian in many areas. In some, it is wild and rowdy. And not to mention the rain -- loads of it and all throughout the day. Great Irish music, lots of Guinness and lots of character. It is the city that brought writer, poet, James Joyce, singer, songwriter, Sinead O'Connor and U2. In Dublin, they love James Joyce so much they celebrate James Joyce day like some countries celebrate freedom.

I made it out to see the Giant Ferris wheel next to the Dublin O2. It resembled the London Eye, but not nearly as magical.

One of my favorite books when studying Humanities in Graduate School at California State University was "A Portrait of an Artist as a Young Man."

Dublin is fashionable, stylish and very warm and friendly. There's plenty of culture and plenty of things to do. Dubliners go out often and stay up late.

As a capital city, it is very small, which is good if you want to explore. There's miles and miles of waterline with wonderful views. And lots of great places to go run or ride a bike or go pub crawling.

The Celt is the local Irish pub where I had a fantastic time. I listened all night to lively Irish music from The Shenaningans. I had a great time meeting Daryl and owner Noel Tynan. Irish music is so magical, wonderful and contagious that you stay until the very last note.

Stayed up late. Now I was ready to head back to Belfast tomorrow. Tomorrow, I would leave Dublin for Belfast and by night time be in London to meet with my family. Plenty to do and see.

A Tour of the Antrim Coast

2010-07-31T23:55:00.000-07:00

Snapshots from the Giant's Causeway

2010-07-31T05:48:00.000-07:00

Belfast -- an Old City of Conflict is now a New City of Cool

2010-07-30T22:30:00.000-07:00

"People are building bridges. The most important bridge been built is in each and every person...It's important to being part of the solution, not part of the problem."

Arthur Magee

As a teenager growing up in Georgia, I heard a lot of news of the centuries-old conflict in Northern Ireland. The problem is, I really didn't understand it. To me, this conflict was similar to the enduring Israel-Palestine conflict with no end in sight. Sadly, the news seemed so remote, with no direct, personal impact, and I felt so detached. I never expected to visit this country with my own eyes -- it was never on my radar scope, up until now.

So when I found out I would be visiting Mark and Lee (friends who I met at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival in DC three years ago), I realized there was a lot to learn.

Belfast is known for its troubles and religious conflict. For over 25 years, the IRA was very busy here. On Bloody Friday 1972, the IRA set off 22 bombs killing 9 people and injuring about 120. The city had not experienced such a day of death and bloodshed since the German blitz of Easter Tuesday 1941. Nearly 1,000 lives were lost and 100,000 people became homeless. One main fault was that when the bombs dropped, people did not know what to do. There were no bomb shelters. They did not know whether to run, hide or stay in their beds. The IRA hoped they would be just as successful in catching the government and the people unprepared in hopes of getting Northern Ireland out of the UK.

Truly, there was only one main pursuit: The Irish Republicans wanted a united Ireland. However, there never such a state as a united Ireland. After all as a detached foreigner, I didn't truly understand what the big deal was, other than the name and the unity. Truly, Northern Ireland and Ireland enjoyed an open border where citizens could cross either side freely without having to produce a passport. So what's in a name?

Background

The conflict between the Catholics and the Protestant isn't really about religion. It stemmed from differences in social classes. The majority of the population in Ireland was Catholic. They never underwent the church reform that England did in the 1500s.

Hostility arose between Catholics and Protestant when England began to establish plantations in Ireland and act as a colonial power.

When British troops were first sent to Northern Ireland in 1969, they made the mistake by targeting the Catholics. At first, the Catholics welcomed the troops, but when the forces were unilaterally against them, the Provisional IRA emerged as the key insurgent force opposing Protestant political domination.

Meanwhile, the battle became quite international. Irish Americans supported the IRA with money and weapons.

So what transpired? Warfare and bloodshed can only do so much to effect change. Eventually the common people, even those who are avidly supportive of the cause, got literally exhausted with all this nonsense. So the IRA suffered a major public relations debacle. Public support for the cause had dwindled while Britain continued to refuse to withdraw.

In the 1970's, Peace Walls ranging in length from a few hundred yards to three miles, were built in Western Belfast to separate Catholic and Protestant communities. Today, many of these walls still exist, an interest to tourists and serve as a reminder of what was once sectarian violence.

As public support for the IRA dwindled, the leaders of the IRA decided to shift from armed conflict to political engagement.

The talks eventually led to a Northern Ireland cease fire in 1994 which paved the way for the Belfast agreement. This cessation of military operations ended over 30 years of guerrilla warfare in an attempt to achieve a united Ireland through constitutional means.

Good Friday

In 1998, the Belfast Agreement was signed becoming a major political development in the Northern Ireland peace process. It committed all participants to democratic and peaceful means of resolving differences. The agreement also allowed people born in Northern Ireland to choose between British or Irish citizenship or both.

In the past, in order to travel almost anywhere in Northern Ireland, you would have to get checked and searched. Throughout Belfast, there would be traces of bombing. The Europa Hotel was damaged by the IRA, a record 33 times.

The New Belfast

But today, the Belfast you see is nothing like what it once was. Belfast is teeming with walkable sidewalks and courtyards. There are plenty of cyclists and open spaces in the city core, near Victoria Park and near the waterfront.

Victoria Square is a modern, state-of-the-art shopping complex. The Belfast you see now is open, trendy, and fashionable.

Our tour guide, Arthur Magee captured it best:

"People are building bridges. The most important bridge been built is in each and every person.
It's important to being part of the solution, not part of the problem."

The First Protestant church in Belfast on Rosemary Street, managed by Raymond O'Regan is opened to everyone. It's amazing to hear that the Protestant Church contributed large sums of money for the Catholic population.

This church, the oldest surviving church in Belfast, dates back to 1783. The church is beautiful with intricate wood carvings and stained glass windows that commemorate local families and former members of the parish. It is a living, breathing museum:

Dr. William Drennan preached here and is credited with the idea of uniting Catholic, Protestant and Dissenter. Dr. Drennan also advocated inoculation against small pox and hand washing to prevent infection. Inside the church is a moving eulogy written in 1776 by his son Dr. William Drennan for his father. Both the words and handwriting are beautiful. Thomas Andrews designer of the Titanic also attended church here.

This church is a wonderful living, breathing museum and brings the beautiful Belfast past to the very present.

Gay Rights

I happened to be in Belfast for the Gay Pride Weekend. I could not help but notice that Belfast prides itself for being tolerant and understanding and wants to send that message loud and clear to the rest of the world.

Despite what your views are on Gay rights, it's important that Belfast is showing a major change from sectarian arguments to social acceptance and promotion of all people, regardless of race, religion or sexual preference.

Applications to Baghdad

So where are we going with this and what applications are there with today's conflicts. Similarly, when American forces came into Baghdad in 2003, they were welcomed as liberators. But the US and allies faced a full-blown and powerful Sunni insurgency who perceived the US as siding with the Shiites.

We know where we have failed. We should have sent more troops to fight the war and control the situation in the earlier stages of the war. The sectarian violence that escalated in 2006 quickly overwhelmed the Iraqi political process.

The abrupt fall of Baghdad was accompanied by widespread civil disorder and looting of public and government buildings. Over 250,000 short tons of ordnance was looted, providing the insurgency with a significant source of ammunition.

By 2004, the insurgency expanded and instead of just targeting coalition forces, started targeting Iraqi Security Forces.

After the US disbanded Iraq's armed forces, the Iraqi resistance in the Al Anbar province was the most strongest resulting in over 1,300 KIA since the invasion, many dying in Fallujah and Ramadi. As a result, the Administration finally resolved to a troop surge in 2007 of over 20,000 troops that was successful in breaking up the cycle of violence that the Iraqi government needed to move forward with political economical progress.

Thankfully the Surge and the Petraeus Doctrine was meeting the military objectives. The Iraqui forces had dealt significant blows to Al-Qaeda and disrupted Shia militias, and tribal rejection of Al-Qaeda had spread from the Anbar Province to other parts of Iraq.

The offensive against Al Qaeda in Iraq has been quite successfully over the last few years. Just like with the IRA, violent and discriminate attacks directed by AQI against civilians had severely damaged their image resulting in a huge loss of public support. In addition, many former Sunni militants began to shift over and start working with the multi-national forces. This is where the troop surge was successful in killing many high-level AQI members, thus seriously weakening the group. Today, AQI has been driven out in places including the Al Anbar province. Just like with the IRA, you cannot win overwhelming public support by inciting mass terrorism and bloodshed. Eventually the people will get tired and start rebelling against them.

As a result, the US is now drawing down and transitioning increased responsibilities to Iraqi forces. From a peak of 170,000 forces in 2007, a transitional force of 50,000 troops will remain to train and advise Iraqi security forces, protect US civilians and conduct counter-terrorism operations.

And today, the security, political and economical situation in Iraq continues to be positive. The deepening peace in Northern Ireland has taken 40 years to craft. It took a lot of strategy, negotiation and most of all patience. The war in Iraq is over seven years old now. Let's hope this long, drawn-out saga will end peacefully in a happy note just like it has for the people of Northern Ireland, and hopefully a lot sooner.

The Legend of the Giants' Causeway

2010-07-30T16:39:00.000-07:00

The Most Beautiful Coastline in the World

2010-07-30T05:38:00.000-07:00

With Mark Wilson and Lee Lawson

"Living here, we really don't appreciate what we have in this wee country. We have glaciated vallies, exposed rock formations at the Causway showing millions of years of geophysical and climatic changes etc, and then there is the human history of the area as well, and the part it has played in shaping modern day Europe and modern day American history, legislature, culture, music, democracy, agriculture and industry!!! We've a lot to offer and don't make the best use of our tourism potential!

Chito had spent a lot of time in Hawaii and used to think it was the most beautiful place in the world....until yesterday. Now he says it's our wee Northern Ireland's Antrim Coast!!"

Mark Wilson, Drummer and Percussionist

Please Drink the Water in Dublin

2010-07-28T21:30:00.000-07:00

"When in Rome do as the Romans. When with the Irish, drink lots of Guinness."

I normally don't like Guinness. The last time I enjoyed its roasted malts was exactly three years ago, when summers were mild and friends called instead of texted.

But I was at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival in DC. I did not second guess. I easily gulped it down because I was with new friends from Northern Ireland, and I wanted to immerse myself in the merry spirit that they so gladly touted. "When in Rome do as the Romans. When with the Irish, drink lots of Guinness."

But for the last three years, I practically refrained from tasting this popular stout. It was too strong, too dry, too heavy, not tasty. But then again which light beer had flavor. I wanted to head the other way.

But then when my wanderlust travels took me to the hills of Northern Ireland, I knew it was time. For the first three days, the moment wasn't right. Yes, I passed many pubs and yes, the mugs were overflowing with creamy head mixed with liquid nitrogen. As tempting as it may seemed, I just didn't want to go solo, even in a bar filled with Patricks and O'Malleys. I wanted to enjoy the thick stout in the company of friends and better yet, in the mist of a special celebration, even if it was the very last day in Ireland.

Welcome to Dublin, the home of the "pub crawl". The Celt, a merry Irish Pub with a lively atmosphere was the very right place and certainly the right time. The Shenanigans were performing, their banjos strumming, and I was in for a delightful treat. The music was jazzy, Irish mixed with some Blues and even Reggae. The pub was cozy with lots of adrenaline and good conversation that didn't make you blush. I had now slipped into my perfect mood. This was the precise moment -- I had to break the cherry over the creamy top.

It hit me like a lightning bolt My eyes lit up and my belly warmed up over an outdoor open fire. I had never tasted any stout this good, this satisfying. For some reason that night, the roasted malts started to twirl in my mouth, had a special tang that I never realized, never knew existed...smothered my thirst and carried me away in a thrilling tidal wave all the way back to Belfast. I ran the rolling, green hills, up and down, over Irish pastures, the summer night air felt refreshingly cold. I needed the stout now to warm me up some more.

I had expected heaviness, but I got milk. I had expected a full frontal assault on my taste buds, but got just a bit of almonds and caramel all mixed in one. I expected body, and I got head, torso and leg. My goodness, is the water truly different here? It wasn't just St. James Gate Dublin water -- it was fresher, richer, bolder. Yes, please do drink the water here.

It was on this special night that I wanted to leap for joy. An incredible three-week trip and a wonderful finale in a land paved with luck and gold. Here I had found love, and this time it won't hurt as bad, I promise.

Rio's Japanese Curry @ Home

2010-07-28T16:53:00.000-07:00

Today, my niece, Rio made the most succulent Japanese curry, I've eaten in quite a while.

She sent Luke and I shopping during the day for beef, onion, potatoes and carrots.

The curry sauce was out of this world with the right thickness, right starchiness and right sweetness.

It tasted like chocolate, so gorgeous and succulent.

Great Job Rio!

Heading to Northern Ireland now. Should toast a pint of bubbly Guinness to this.

The Most Amazing Coincidence in Great Britian

2010-07-28T04:42:00.001-07:00

What are the chances. What are the chances, really. It's simply amazing that you could meet old friends and colleagues in a foreign city on a remote tour, the one that I wasn't supposed to be on (had missed the earlier one), when you least expect it.

CAPT Perdue, me, Luke and Lulu

Luke and I, at the last minute, decided to take the London for Free tour. We met at Wellington's Arch and took at 2 1/2 tour of the city, covering a lot of ground and history: Buckingham Palace, Churchill's War Rooms, etc.

I was truly amazed at Hyde's Park. The National Mall in DC had nothing compared to this freedom park in London.

I met Lulu during the tour, a student from Sydney, and we immediately started sharing stories about our European backpacking trips. But throughout the tour, I was enamored by someone who resembled an old shipmate from Bethesda. Nah, couldn't be.

The name, I was drawing a blank, but I never forget a face.

So I told Luke that if he is this guy, this would be the most astonishing and amazing coincidence ever.

Midway during the tour, I simply walked up to him, thinking that he would think I'm crazy.

"Are you from the States?" "Yes."

"Are you in the Navy?" Affirmative.

I knew right there and then, that the person I was staring at was CAPT Phil Perdue, MC from Bethesda and the National Naval Medical Center.

I was floored, but for the rest of the tour we had a good time sharing stories from Navy Medicine and the Navy.

Not to mention that the tour guide was just fantastic: Charismatic and interesting, especially the last story at Westminster Abbey about how Guy Fawkes tried to blow up Westminster in 1605.

What a tour, What a coincidence.

After the tour ended, Lulu and I decided to make a video

The Man Who Tried to Blow up Westminster Abbey

2010-07-28T04:29:00.000-07:00

Here we are in front of Westminster
Where in 1605 the lunatic Guy Fawkes planned something sinister
He wanted to blow up every Lord, Common and Minister
But the Kingsmen caught him in the act and punished him with light torture
And today the towers still stand, surrounded by timeless British culture

Derek Stockley: Profile of a Painter

2010-07-26T17:04:00.001-07:00

Trafalgar Square Celebration

2010-07-26T16:10:00.001-07:00

Luke and I with 100 of our newest friends from Naples, Italy, rap about the Square and celebrate the 2012 Summer Olympics in London.

Derek's Abstract Touch

2010-07-26T15:17:00.000-07:00

Had a very nice time Derek Stockley and Luke and Rio at their house in Airedale Ave. Derek is an abstract art painter who paints using the cooking and burner method.

The paintings are created with synthetic wax and oil paint on canvas. The materials are heated, melted, soaked, set and mixed, producing a gorgeous work of beauty.

Derek is truly a virtuoso who stumbled upon the art world when he was in an orphanage at the age of 10 when he was assigned to do an art project by his teacher. Due to fear from his teacher, he quickly put something together which the teacher really loved.

Derek also painted water colors and taught art while he served in the Royal Navy aboard an aircraft carrier. Onboard the ship, he also drew cartoons. Derek also painted portraits in bars for drinks.

After the Navy, Derek knew he had to go to school, so he attended the prestigious Saint Martins School of Art.

Derek talked a lot about the touch and feel of abstract painting -- the Rembrandt touch. Rembrandt, a Dutch painter, is who what many people consider the greatest artist of all time.

One of the many self-portraits by Rembrandt that is displayed at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC

Derek's house, as you might expect is decorated with many of his paintings. Derek paints in his bedroom and I'm sure reflects a lot on his art projects, although Derek tells me when he is painting, the process is so fast, he has no time to think.

Run to Richmond

2010-07-25T05:53:00.000-07:00

Today, Chris and I ran from Chiswick to Richmond, a suburban town in southwest London. The run along the River Thames was quite scenic with knarled ancient trees, muddy acres and woodpeckers here and there.

It was quite frankly a historical delight as I reflected on the history surrounding our trail.

The south bank is dingy, some parts industrial, but still quite charming.

And when we got to Richmond, I was in for a total surprise. The town was quaint and rustic with plenty of greenery, yet full of amenities and tourists.

Richmond Park, is Britian's largest urban walled park and three times as large as Central Park, NYC.

The park actually has a large population of fallow deer.

After the 8-mile run, we stopped at Fuller's Pub to get a Fuller Beer, which is aka the Chiswick's Pride -- a low strength beer with delicious hop character.

What an ideal way to end a long and scenic run. I've never had beer in the morning, by the way. But there is a first time for everything. And in London, anything can happen, frankly.

Old London and the Wall

2010-07-25T00:53:00.000-07:00

Reflecting
(The Roman Wall many centuries old)

Ancient London was ruled by the Romans

In 200 AD, They built this wall

Over 2 miles long and 100 feet tall

It stretched from Black Friars Bridge on the River Thames to the London Tower

The Wall protected the village from intruders

And in 1666 spared the center core from the Great Fire

Understanding

The London Wall was the defensive wall that protected the square mile of London. Although the exact reason for the construction of the wall was unknown, it may have been to defend the city against the Picts, a confederation of Celtic tribes living in what was later to become Scotland.

Negotiation

In the 17th century, London suffered heavily. The Black Plague of 1665 killed up to half the population, about 500,000 people. The plague was caused by the fleas that resided on black rats that were regular passengers aboard merchant ships. It spread rapidly throughout Europe and in 1665, erupted in London.

Masks worn by doctors during the Black Plague

During this time, many people decided to flee London for the countryside. The nobility left the city for their estates in the country. By the summer, the roads were clogged with people desperate to escape the city. As a result, the Lord Mayor closed the gates to the city to anyone who did not have a certificate of health. These certificates became a currency of great worth.

It was rumored that dogs and cats spread the disease. As a result, the Lord Mayor ordered all dogs and cats to be killed. This was a huge mistake. The result of this was that the rats no longer had any natural enemy, so the rat population exploded.

Despite this mistake, there was Heroism found during the plague. One small village that was badly ravaged by the plague ( brought on by a shipment of old clothes sent from London). The villagers led by their courageous clergyman decided that the only way to stop the spread of the plague was to voluntarily quarantine the village, refusing to leave until the plague had run its course. Eventually, 259 died out of 292 villagers. Every year, the event is commemorated by the Plague Sunday Service in Eyam.

Eventually, the plague subsided. But this was not the last tragedy to ravage London. In 1666, London was swept by a Great Fire.

Innovation

So what did the wall accomplish. For one it isolated the city. The city was in ruins. But the Wall did protect the city core from destruction.

Soon the wall was destroyed, torn down and forgotten.

Ironically, the German bombing during the Blitz of 1940 helped reveal parts of the wall.

Navigating

Today, we live in better times. It is great that we don't have to build walls to protect and isolate ourselves. It is the internet that has broken down many socio and economic walls. Trading and interacting no longer has to be done just by ships. Today, we communicate online and conduct most of our business there.

The London Wall

2010-07-24T18:09:00.001-07:00

Old London Limericks

2010-07-24T06:12:00.000-07:00

Tower of London Limerick

2010-07-24T01:19:00.000-07:00

Here my new friends, Wren and Shaz, rap about the significance and background of the venerable Tower of London

The Tower of London
Protuding from the River Thames

The sight of the Tower makes me wanna hum the Royal Anthem

Built by William the Conqueror in the 11th century
The fortress has served many purposes from the Armory to the Penitentiary.

Hitler once wanted to invade England. He had eventually changed his mind, but wanted to destroy London. The purpose of the Blitz was to demoralize the population and force Britain to come into terms.

On Sept 7, 1940, 348 German bombers blasted London for two hours. Then a second set of raiders came and attacked London all through the night. The Blitz continued for 57 consecutive days.

Londoners sought shelter underground, and as many as 177,000 people stayed in shelters during the night. Many were killed when shelters were attacked.

Thankfully, the London Tower was not destroyed from the bombing.

Tower of London

2010-07-23T04:25:00.000-07:00

The Tower of London protuding from the River Thames
The sight of the tower makes me hum the Royal Anthem
Built by William the Conqueror in the 11th Century
The Fortress has served many purposes from armory to penitentiary.

Big Ben

2010-07-23T04:05:00.000-07:00

Any trip in London wouldn't be complete without going to see old Ben

It has served Londoners through the years, again and again

(During the war, an incendiary bomb destroyed the Commons area in the House of Parliament, but the big clock remained intact and working)

The big Clock has been ticking since 1859

During the war it took a licking but the iconic timepiece survived quite fine.

The ole' Big Ben is the most famous clock face in the world

Behind the majestic tower , the famous Union Jack unfurled.

Luke's First Run

2010-07-22T15:41:00.000-07:00

I was honored to run with Luke from Airedale Ave to the Thames River. Although, his father, Derek runs regularly, this would be Luke's first big run.

I enjoyed running along the narrow cobblestone streets, and along the river Thames, passing Pubs, tourists and double decker buses.

Luke running next to the Hammersmith Bridge

We crossed both Hammersmith Bridge to get to the southern part of London and then Barnes Bridge on the way back. It was a wonderful experience. Unlike anything I have witnessed back home.

All in all, we did a good 5 miles and we were looking forward to running another 5 again the day after next.

There were many runners, even many female running solo along the eastern bank. Many were running fast -- I could tell they were very serious. Perhaps they were training for the upcoming London Triathlon.

Now, I see why London is the most fittest city in Europe.

The Route that we took:

View Larger Map

Standing next to Luke and his father, Derek Stockley, who runs daily along the Thames.

Reflections of D-Day

2010-07-21T20:12:00.000-07:00

I wanted to reflect what it was like spending a night in the English Channel before the actual invasion. How nerve racking it must have been for the soldiers. Did they go to bed? Did they sleep well? How could they if they knew what would be awaiting them the next day.

The seas were rough that night. Many of the soldiers fell sick. The space was jammed. Bunks were six deep and each berthing compartment held about 50 men.

From Normandy, I headed to Caen to board the ferry across the English Channel. In the evening, I headed down the Brittany Ferry's assigned seating area. The ferry was first class with shopping, dining, even a dance floor. I drank a Fosters. I would try to sleep well tonight. But first I would have to reflect on the past and what it was like for the men on June 2-4th, 1944.

By early morning, we arrived in Portsmouth at 0600. I was weary but ready and excited to see my niece, Rio.

Portsmouth is a very historic, thriving commercial ferryport with a lot to do and offer. Today, it is home to some famous Naval ships including HMS Warrior and Lord Nelson's flagship, HMS Victory.

A French destroyer inport in the harbor of Portsmouth

The Spinnaker Tower is a great icon and represents Portsmouth's deep nautical significance and naval history.

It was only about an hour ride on a train to London before I caught the Tube to Gunnersbury, near Chiswick.

Hello Kindle, Goodbye Borders

2010-07-14T06:46:00.000-07:00

"Books no longer, get lost on the shelf. They can be accessed even in the remote parts of the world, even that clunky textbook. With the Kindle, once you buy a book, it's forever yours."

Reminiscing

I used to love Borders and Barnes and Nobles. I would spend countless hours, flipping away at shelves, relaxing in the comfy chairs, eating away at books and sipping Seattle's Best.

Those were the days. Long, and lazy with nothing in store but a good book and an open mind. Now those long, lazy days are long gone....

Planning for my European Backpacking Trip

When I was planning my trip to Europe, I knew I would spend countless hours waiting for a plane, for a train or riding on one. Since I was backpacking, I had to travel light. I was convinced then that I needed to purchase a Kindle. And since Amazon had just reduced the price on the Kindle 2 by 20%, I was off running to Target to make that storied purchase.

It didn't take me long to get acclimated. Within a couple of days, I had made my obligatory purchase of War and Peace, all 1500 pages of it which was downloaded in less than a minute. Surely, I would not be able to carry a hardcopy book of this novel aboard a plane without been charged for additional luggage. And on a Kindle, I can carry 2500 books, which Amazon hopes you will purchase.

Free Ebooks

Not so fast. Buying a Kindle doesn't necessarily mean charging up your credit card.

The very next thing I did was visit Planet Ebooks to get free version of classic literature. This is easily done using my Amazon email.

English Literature

So the Kindle opens new doors to the world of Classic English literature. Welcome to A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, one of my all time favorite books about the intellectual and religious awakenings of Stephen Dedalus.

And yes, sometimes English literature can be more complex than American. And when I am stumped, I can easily download a Cliff's Notes version without having to rush to the store.

Learn French or Read the Huffington Post.

The third thing I did was sign up for a free 14-day subscription to a number of blogs that I felt would interest me or help me throughout my trip. For example, FrenchPod101.com could come in handy if I decided to visit Paris.

In truth, I did not really know where I would be going. Just happy to catch a Medevac flight to Ramstein and from there, played it all by ear.

When You Need Info in a Jiffy

But when I finally decided in the last minute to catch a train from Frankfurt to Paris, I needed information right away about places to see and hostels in the area, so I downloaded Lonely Planet France via the Whispernet which worked very reliably and quickly.

Some Samples are Nuggets of (Free) Info

What was also great were the many samples that you I ordered for free. Many of the samples (especially tourist guide books) were chock-full of information and came in very handy throughout my travels.

Highlighting without a Marker

Although I didn't highlight much, I particularly liked the new feature that allows me to see where other people have highlighted. I liked this featured (which can be turned off), since it gives me info about what parts other people found interesting. Many times, I would have completely missed it. In a way, reading an ebook is kind of like reading a blog, since we are able to get almost instantaneous input from other readers. It's a way of collaborating -- I'm sure in the future, there will be a way to read other people's notes.

Can it Talk?

Sometimes, I would get tired of reading. Especially on those long train rides (Frankfurt to Paris) or the long ferry rides (Caen to Portsmouth). But my mind was still intellectually primed and I still had time to kill. So I would simply turn on the text to speech function and slide into the lazy mode. The automated reading was not very easy to listen to (Oddly, I prefer the male over the female), but it was definitely better than missing out on the information completely. Actually, I would prefer to listen to my Ipod, but it may not be as mentally stimulating.

Works Well in Europe

I had no problems at all. I downloaded many books and sample while waiting for the train or even riding on a train. With my mind, you never know where it may drift to. If I saw someone reading a good book or overhear someone talking about a particular topic, I immediately wanted to search it. That's the way my mind works, but life is more exciting that way.

Wiki and Google Worked Like a Charm

Absolutely. I made sure to bring it whenever I took a guided tour or when I was just walking or running around. Since I didn't have Iphone connectivity, I relied on my Kindle to give background Wiki information about a particular monument or historical building.

But wait, isn't the Ipad better?

Absolutely if you want to surf the internet, but the Ipad weighs over twice as much and is much more clunky. I wouldn't necessarily carry my Ipad when taking tours. Also the Kindle is more weather resistant for those on again, off again British rains. The battery lasts forever and it is very easy on the eyes. You just got stare at an LCD screen forever without your eyes drying up. Plus the Amazon has virtually every book you can imagine which BTW can be read on your IPad (Amazon has an application that allows you to read your book across various devices), once you purchased it. Books no longer, get lost on the shelf. They can be accessed even in the remote parts of the world, even that clunky textbook. With the Kindle, once you buy a book, it's forever yours. And the best advantage of all, the Kindle is way, way cheaper.

And Now the Best Feature of All..

Ok, so I have gotten there yet. What I found, you may find surprising. Since I am generally a slow reader -- I like to chew on words -- it makes my thinking more rich. And sometimes my mild attention deficit disorder kicks in and I simply have to set my Kindle down on my lap.

When this happens, I love to read a specific book by searching for keywords. By typing in a specific keyword (the more specific the better), I get to browse through the entire book in a jiffy. I can then scroll down and review a particular page that interests me.

I know this sounds obvious, but for some reason, reading by keywords gives me immediate context since it helps me connect the dots. I know it's cheating, but life is about innovation, and if it helps me get through the book faster, there's more time to browse other books.

Take it Aboard Metro

So now that I'm home, what are my plans with the Kindle? Like my Android and Ipod, I promise to keep it close to me at all times. It's light enough to stow away in your backpack and easy on the eyes, even in dim lighting. You never know when you will be waiting for that metro train and want to read something intellectual besides "The Express" or "The Examiner" or on Thursdays, "The City Paper". Besides, if there's standing room only, I end up reading other people's copies of the headlines, anyway.

And for that Borders -- yes I still love them. If I had time, I could stow away in one for days.

But for my Kindle, I simply have a love affair.